An active ingredient in a plant extract can be backed by promising scientific research and still fall flat when applied to your skin. A plant extract can have compounds which have been investigated for their anti-inflammatory effects and the final skincare product might lack them in an effective dose. A different plant-based ingredient might be able to nourish dry skin but cause an adverse reaction for individuals who are sensitive to its components.
It is one of the crucial differences in the field of natural skincare. The biological effect of a plant is not the same thing as the proven effect of a skincare product.
In case you are doing research on how to relieve sensitive skin, such a difference can allow you to see past the trends in ingredients. It will become more reasonable for you to select skincare products based on how each plant is utilized rather than choosing them just because they use aloe vera, calendula or chamomile extracts.
What Does It Actually Mean to Soothe Sensitive Skin?
Sensitive skin is not an exact diagnosis, but rather a set of signs that may manifest as burning, stinging, itching, tightness or visible redness. Such signs may be present either with or without changes in the condition of skin surface.
The mechanism of sensitive skin has been studied extensively, and the current theories propose factors such as differences in skin barrier function, sensory nerve response and individual reactions to the external influences as the reasons for that condition. That is why two people can use the same products and have completely different sensation from it.(1)
Let's compare three possible conditions. One person feels the tightness during cleansing due to the dry skin or the inappropriate cleansing formula used. The other person feels the immediate stinging due to the products which did not cause any discomfort before. The third person experiences chronic redness around the cheek and nose areas possibly due to some inflammatory conditions.(2)
Those conditions may seem identical but do not always have the same reason.
That difference is important because “soothing” isn’t just one biological process. It might involve hydrating the skin, decreasing friction, helping dry skin become comfortable, or managing an inflammation process specifically. A moisturizing product could solve those three problems but not the problem of what’s causing the redness.
So when looking into natural products for sensitive skin, the first thing to ask is “what am I trying to soothe?”
How Plant Compounds Interact With the Skin
Various types of chemicals are formed by plants during their biological processes, including polyphenols, flavonoids, terpenes, fatty acids and polysaccharides. Certain compounds among these chemicals are investigated for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory or moisturizing biological properties.(3)
The chemical makeup of the plant extract is not constant because its composition depends on the botanical source, the plant part, as well as the cultivation, harvesting, processing and extraction process.(4)
Two preparations containing the same botanical ingredient can thus contain different amounts of certain chemicals.
Polyphenols and flavonoids: promising research, but context matters
Polyphenols and flavonoids are classes of compounds commonly found in various plants. They have exhibited antioxidant or anti-inflammatory activities in scientific lab studies. As such, they have gained scientific significance in relation to skincare products since lab studies focus on effects caused by environmental stress and inflammatory pathway activation on skin.(5)
Lab-based results do not guarantee that topical application of the plant extract will soothe skin. The compound must be in adequate form and concentrations to have an effect on the skin. Studies done on humans are required to confirm the efficacy of the product.
That is why a product label stating the ingredient is a source of antioxidants does not tell you much about the benefits you can get from the product.
Polysaccharides: a different route to skin comfort
There are also some plant polysaccharides which may help with texture and film-forming and water-binding capacity of skincare products. Instead of having an anti-inflammatory action per se, they may help with creating a moisturizing film or improving the texture of the product itself.
This is an important differentiation because it is possible for a substance to provide comfort due to physical characteristics without having an impact on inflammation itself.
The issue of comfort and sensitivity becomes relevant in this case. However, the formulation should be assessed, not all plant extracts or polysaccharides being the same.
Plant oils: composition matters more than the word natural
Plant oils tend to be viewed as one group of ingredients for use in skincare products. However, it is important to note that they have different fatty acid compositions, different minor components, stability and sensory characteristics.
Some oils are mainly used for their emollient action because they help make the skin softer. It all depends on the composition of the oil itself and how it is applied in the final product.
Oxidation is also important because some components of the oil may change after exposure to oxygen, light and heat.(6) Therefore, the factors of sourcing, manufacturing, storage and packaging of a plant oil-based formulation are also relevant
The right question here is not whether the oil is natural, but what does it do for your formulation and whether the formulation works for you.
Five Plant-Based Ingredients Worth Understanding More Closely
1. Calendula: more than a botanical label
Calendula officinalis, which has been studied for a variety of phytoconstituents like flavonoids and triterpenoids, has some constituents that show biological activities in laboratory studies related to inflammation and skin reactions.(7)
However, the results need to be taken cautiously. Laboratory research on isolated constituents, or on certain laboratory models or specific topical preparations of calendula, cannot automatically be extrapolated to all calendula waters, oils, or extracts used in commercial skin care products.
This is because the type of preparation makes a difference since different preparations contain different constituents. A calendula water preparation and a calendula extract from oil preparation cannot be considered to be containing the same types of constituents and producing the same results.
In case of sensitive skin, calendula needs to be considered as a botanical that has been researched rather than a surefire ingredient for redness reduction. Contact allergies can also be developed from botanical ingredients.
2. Chamomile: which preparation is being used?
Chamomile is another botanical ingredient commonly associated with soothing skincare products. There are differences in compounds in chamomiles, which differ in their content based on the material used and its preparation method.
Some compounds found in chamomiles have been studied for inflammation-causing biological activities.(8) However, the fact that chamomile is included in the list of ingredients of a cosmetic product does not prove the concentration of these compounds or the efficiency of the product for sensitive skin.
The difference between chamomile water, an extract, and an essential oil is especially important. These materials do not share the same chemical formula; essential oils are aromatic oils, whereas the water-based preparation is different.
Thus, the whole formula of the product is more important than just one ingredient. While chamomile may work well for some individuals, it is not right for all, especially those with plant allergies.
3. Jojoba oil: why its chemistry is unusual
The reason for the chemistry behind jojoba oil's uniqueness is the fact that it contains mostly liquid wax esters instead of the triglycerides found in many common vegetable oils.
This makes the nature of jojoba oil's use in products quite interesting. From the perspective of skin care products, jojoba oil is generally used as an emollient that softens the skin.
It is vital to remember that jojoba oil's chemistry does not confirm that the ingredient will be able to restore any damaged barrier of the skin nor that it will prevent any irritations. The benefits of jojoba oil depend on how it is used in formulations and whether the final product is suitable for the end user.
Jojoba oil may serve as a good example of a botanical ingredient chosen for its physical properties rather than its soothing capabilities.
4. Shea butter: the function of a plant-derived lipid
Shea butter is a source of lipids and is often found in cosmetic formulations that help moisturize the dry skin. The main benefit of the ingredient for the skin is its emollient action, as it helps to achieve more smooth skin surface.
It is composed of ingredients that contain fatty acids and the other small part of the mixture contains unsaponifiable substances. It has different chemical formulae depending on the origin of the product and manufacturing process, so not all components of the butter are the same chemically.
The cosmetic formulation with the correct formula can be helpful for moisturizing the sensitive skin with additional problems with dryness. But the inclusion of the ingredient does not mean that the cosmetic product will have anti-inflammatory properties.
More concentrated butter might be too oily for some people. It depends on the application area and personal preferences of the consumer.
5. Rosehip oil: the importance of stability
The rosehip oil has been incorporated into skin care formulations due to the natural occurrence of fatty acids and other components in the formulation. This can aid in the addition of emollient qualities to moisturizing formulas, softening the skin.
On the other hand, the composition of the oil varies with the source and the mode of extraction employed. The nature of the fatty acid in the formulation is an essential aspect that needs to be considered regarding the stability and storage of the formulation. Unsaturated oils tend to oxidize; thus, any change in the oil composition will influence the aroma, appearance and efficacy of the formulation.
This does not mean that rosehip oil is not suitable for sensitive skin, but it is essential that the ingredient be assessed as a formulation, including the manufacturing, packaging and storage of the formulation.
Why Extraction and Formulation Can Change the Result
A botanical ingredient is not just a plant component added to a product. The method of extraction determines what compounds are being used, while the final product determines the stability and interaction of those compounds.
Water-based extraction generally yields water-soluble compounds. Oil-based extraction yields different compounds. And other extraction methods might yield yet a different set of compounds. Depending on the plant used and the manufacturing method.
And there is such a thing as concentration. A high concentration does not mean a better product. It might affect the characteristics of a product, such as stability or the risk of irritation, and also the effect of that particular ingredient.
Formulation determines the interaction between ingredients. Preservatives, emulsifiers, cleansing agents, etc., play important roles in a product, but the whole combination also determines its performance.
That is why the presence of a botanical ingredient is not enough to claim that the product is suitable for sensitive skin. Information on the final product is more helpful than a list of plants.
How to Choose Plant-Based Skincare When Your Skin Is Reactive
When your skin reacts often to the new products, choosing skincare should be an act of decreasing uncertainty rather than adding extra ingredients.
First of all, determine what kind of reaction you are having. Stinging, itching, delayed rashes, and recurring facial redness may indicate different issues. A dermatologist will help differentiate between irritation, allergic contact dermatitis, and other skin conditions if symptoms persist.
Then, assess the formulation as a whole. You should pay attention to the ingredients list, be wary of any possible personal triggers, and choose non-strongly fragranced products if the fragrance has caused a reaction before. The plant-based nature of the product doesn’t tell you anything about its concentration of aromatic or other possible irritant ingredients.
Try adding only one product at once. Although testing a small amount of the product on a small part of healthy skin can help detect some reactions, it won’t be helpful in case of every allergy and cannot guarantee the compatibility with the rest of your body.
Finally, avoid treating botanical skincare as a substitute for diagnosis. If your skin remains inflamed or symptoms recur despite simplifying your routine, professional assessment is more useful than repeatedly switching products.
Where The Good Hygiene Company Fits Into Plant-Based Skincare
The Good Hygiene Company incorporates botanical ingredients into various skincare formulations. It may therefore be useful to examine the role of the individual ingredients in such products rather than simply assuming that all botanical skincare products perform the same way.
For instance, in its Body Rinse, calendula and chamomile waters are used together with glycerin and coconut-based cleansing agents. In this product, the botanicals provide the ingredients, glycerin is a humectant and the cleansing system gives an indication of how the product is able to wash away impurities.
The Soothing Serum uses jojoba oil and the Replenishing Body Butter uses shea butter, mango butter and rosehip oil. Jojoba oil offers emollient properties, while the butters and rosehip oil contribute to the body butter formula.
This is significant in judging products designed for sensitive skin as these ingredients cannot simply be interchanged since they are of different composition and serve different roles in a formulation.
This kind of product is judged based on its full ingredient list and individual skin compatibility. Botanical ingredients alone do not indicate that the product is able to treat or prevent irritation to sensitive skin.
Conclusion
Learning how to calm your sensitive skin takes more than having a list of soothing botanicals. Each one such as Calendula, Chamomile, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter and Rosehip Oil has a different composition and function on skincare. While some of them are studied for their biological activities, others have no scientific basis but serve to soften skin or change the formulation of the skincare product.
It is essential to differentiate studies about ingredients from those on the final product since factors like extraction, concentration, stability and formula affect the contribution of a botanical ingredient, whereas tolerance determines if the product is good for your skin.
Plant-based skincare can be viewed as a routine procedure, but the best way to go about it is to study the science behind and realize when you should visit a dermatologist.
References:
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Sensitive Skin Syndrome: An Update - 2020 Jun - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31834575/
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A systematic review of natural products for skin applications: Targeting inflammation, wound healing, and photo-aging - 2023 Jul - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37119762/
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Influence of polyphenols on the physiological processes in the skin - 2015 Apr - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25586195/
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A review on phytochemistry and ethnopharmacological aspects of genus Calendula - 2013 Jul - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24347926/
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Influence of polyphenols on the physiological processes in the skin - 2015 Apr- https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25586195/
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Oxidative Stability and Kinetics of Oxidation of Rosehip, Sunflower, Olive and Jojoba Oils - 2026 May - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/42193267/
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The role of triterpenoids in the topical anti-inflammatory activity of Calendula officinalis flowers - 1994 Dec - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7809203/
