However, if your cheeks blush easily, your face burns after washing or redness seems to become more noticeable every time you try a different serum, it’s time for you to take a closer look at your current skincare regimen. For those with rosacea, some products promising glowing, smooth and clear skin might be problematic.
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory disease affecting skin, which is characterized by the development of persistent facial redness, blushing, visibility of blood vessels and acne-like papules. The condition can be accompanied by skin dryness, sensitivity, heat sensations and irritation. However, not all rosacea flare-ups are associated with skincare ingredients, but some formulas may irritate skin, especially when its barrier functions are compromised.
Knowledge about rosacea skincare ingredients to avoid will help you make better choices while not eliminating all products from your regimen.
Why Does Rosacea-Prone Skin React Differently?
Sensitive skin in case of rosacea can be very sensitive to heat, friction, UV rays, and some topical ingredients. Impaired function of the skin barrier and inflammatory signaling can result in burning, stinging sensations, and erythema.
It implies that an ingredient that is well-tolerated by one individual can irritate people who suffer from rosacea. It all depends on the concentration of the ingredient, its entire formulation, frequency of usage, and state of the skin during the application.
According to the recommendation of the American Academy of Dermatology, individuals who have rosacea should avoid using many skin irritants, such as fragrance, menthol, camphor, glycolic acid, and lactic acid. Nevertheless, every individual has their own triggers, thus, the knowledge of ingredients remains crucial when making decisions. (1)
Rosacea Skincare Ingredients to Avoid or Use With Caution
1. Fragrances and Essential Oils
Fragrances are one of the most frequent sources of irritation and allergic reactions. This includes artificial fragrances or fragrant plants that can provoke flare-ups of rosacea in susceptible individuals.
Especially problematic can be essential oils with peppermint, eucalyptus, or other aromatic plants which could provoke redness or burning. Plant origin of an ingredient does not mean that it is necessarily safe for skin.
What to watch out for: Opt for fragrance free products but do not rely on "unscented" label. Also pay attention to such ingredients as parfum, fragrance and essential oils that provoke your symptoms.
2. Drying alcohols
All alcohols are not created equal and even though some types of alcohol are very hydrating, others such as ethanol, alcohol denat., and isopropyl alcohol are rather drying and irritating, especially when used in astringent or quick drying products.
Fatty alcohols like cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol can have softening effect on skin and therefore do not always have to be avoided.
What to watch out for: Avoid alcohol heavy toners, astringents and facial mists that make your skin feel tight and irritated.
3. Strong exfoliating acids
Glycolic acid and lactic acid are examples of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which serve as exfoliants. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) commonly found in products formulated for people with clogged pores and oily skin.
Despite their proper uses in skincare products, exfoliating acids may irritate or sting rosacea-prone skin, particularly when experiencing an outbreak or overuse. Abrasive cleansing methods may further cause friction on the skin.
Things to look for: Do not exfoliate when you are suffering from inflammation in your skin. If you wish to incorporate any kind of exfoliating agent, consult a dermatologist on its appropriateness for your case.
4. Menthol and camphor
Menthol and camphor give rise to the cooling or heating effect of topical preparations. This feeling may feel good on certain skin types, but could result in a burning, irritating or flushed sensation in individuals suffering from rosacea.
A cooling effect does not necessarily mean that inflammation is going away.
Things to watch for: Look out for soothing creams, balms, and face care products containing menthol and camphor, especially if you have observed that such products worsen your skin redness.
5. Sodium lauryl sulfate and harsh cleansers
Another trigger is the sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), which is a foaming surfactant used in some cosmetics. This ingredient could irritate the skin depending on its concentration and mode of application.
Washing frequently, with hot water, or using harsh cleansing products, could further irritate the skin. Squeaky clean skin does not necessarily mean healthy skin; tight skin could indicate an aggressive cleansing regimen.
Ingredients to watch out for include harsh cleansing products, including those that require scrubbing or exfoliation. One must opt for mild cleansing agents that rinse off easily and do not leave the skin feeling dry.
One should cleanse their face using their fingertips and avoid using scrubs, brushes, or any other product that might irritate the skin. According to the National Rosacea Society, witch hazel and certain scented or astringent products are other common triggers for rosacea.(2)
Products to Avoid With Rosacea: Read Beyond the Front Label
The description of the product on its package might include terms such as "natural," "brightening," "suitable for sensitive skin," or "dermatologically tested." However, this description does not mean that the product will be suitable for all people suffering from rosacea.
In the process of assessing the list of products that should be avoided for people with rosacea, it is important to consider the whole list of ingredients of a particular product and its function.
Astringent toners, especially those that contain drying alcohol or irritants of botanical origin.
Exfoliants which have strong effects, including acid peels and abrasive scrubs.
Highly fragrant products, including perfumes and fragranced face creams, which cause frequent irritation.
Stinging or burning sensations – the irritation that continues after using the product is a signal that it should be avoided.
It is not necessary to give up any of the active ingredients and change the whole routine completely.
What Should Skincare for Rosacea Look Like Instead?
Practical skincare for rosacea includes gentle cleansing, hydration, and daily sun protection.
Gentle cleansing involves washing your face with lukewarm water using a mild cleanser and avoiding rubbing and excessive face washing to get rid of all the oils on the skin.
Nourish the skin barrier. Pick a hydrating product that does not irritate the skin. Ceramide, as well as other tolerated moisturizers, may come in handy but, at the end of the day, the finished formula plays a critical role along with the active ingredients.
Apply sunscreen every day. Ultraviolet rays can provoke rosacea flare-ups. Therefore, broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF 30 or above is a wise place to start. Mineral sunscreens based on zinc oxide or titanium dioxide that do not contain fragrance can be appropriate for people with sensitive skin, yet no sunscreen guarantees zero irritation. (3)
Try products slowly. Try a new product in a tiny spot, excluding the most affected area of your face. Patch testing at home can help recognize some reactions, but it is not always enough to prevent rosacea breakouts and detect every allergy.
How TGHC Approaches Sensitive-Skin Care
When at TGHC, good skincare is about using products that respect the integrity of your skin barrier without trying to strip your skin of oil and moisture. When caring for rosacea sensitive skin, the general message is that one must be careful about choosing cleansing and moisturising products and reading labels.
While plant-based ingredients might be used in the production of skincare products, this does not mean that they are safe for people suffering from rosacea. One must carefully study the formula of any product and introduce it into their routine gradually. Having a gentle skincare routine is a good thing, but it does not replace the services of a doctor.
If the redness persists, one starts developing pustules, visible blood vessels or have dry, gritty eyes, see a dermatologist. Eye symptoms can occur in addition to skin symptoms, hence the need to consult a professional.
Conclusion
Selecting products for rosacea skin care should not revolve around finding a single magical ingredient but rather about steering clear of irritating agents. Fragrances, drying alcohols, menthol, camphor, harsh cleansers, and vigorous exfoliants are among ingredients or product types that need to be considered.
It is always good to begin with a basic regimen, be observant, and remember that the best rosacea skin care regimen is the one that caters to personal triggers. In case redness and irritation persist, professional assistance will go further than experimenting with different products.
References
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7 rosacea skin care tips dermatologists recommend - Apr 2024 - https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/rosacea/triggers/tips/
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Skincare in Rosacea from the Cosmetologist's Perspective: A Narrative Review - 2022 Dec - https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/36614915/
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How to prevent rosacea flare-ups - https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/rosacea/triggers/prevent
